How country houses are built. Do-it-yourself country houses (projects, photos): you can do it

(17 estimates, average: 4,41 out of 5)

Have you purchased a summer cottage? Then you can safely congratulate you on the beginning of your summer cottage life! Surely this was a long-awaited event for you, and now you are in anticipation of growing your own fruits, vegetables and just a wonderful holiday as far away from the bustle of the city as possible. Very often, plots are sold with houses already built on them, but if this is not your case, and you definitely want to build a summer house on your own, then our article is for you. Today we'll talk about the types of country houses, materials for their construction and how to inexpensively build a country house with your own hands.

How to save

Mostly they choose to give small compact houses, consisting of a kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and veranda. Building a country house with your own hands is not necessarily a high-cost and time-consuming process. It is quite possible to choose an inexpensive house project that meets all your requirements for comfort and convenience. If the budget is strictly limited, then you can save on building materials. The main thing is that the building is safe. Before starting construction, you need to choose the exact location of the future house, choose a ready-made one or create your own project and decide on the materials.

Seat selection

The construction of country houses is a must starts with choosing a seat... Basically, the area of ​​such a house is from 24 to 30 square meters. Larger dimensions are used much less often, most often - this is no longer a house for the summer cottage, but a place where you can live all year round with a large family. When planning the location of the house, you must mainly rely on the requirements of your horticultural partnership... But there are also basic requirements that do not depend on the region and local administration. Namely:

In order to avoid flooding during the period of heavy rainfall and melting snow, it is better to build the dacha on an elevated place. Excessive moisture will deteriorate the materials you build from more quickly. This is especially true for timber frame houses.

Types of country houses

Most often, one-story buildings with an open or closed veranda are erected in the country. Very popular cottages with attic- since it can store a considerable amount of things that are not used daily. If there is no attic space, then the roof will be the ceiling. There are three most common types of country houses:

• log cabin;
• frame country house;
• block or brick house.

But what if you have a large family, and there is not as much space for building as you would like? There is a wonderful way out - build a two-story house... The first floor can be used as a kitchen and living room, as well as a terrace, but on the second floor there will be excellent lounges.

When composing a project for your summer cottage, take care of insulation. Despite the fact that the summer house is used in warm seasons and requires insulation of walls and floors as such, there are cold rainy days, during which you will certainly want to warm up. Mostly summer residents use heating devices such as convectors, oil radiators and electric heaters. But if desired, the construction of a stove or fireplace can be included in the project of the house.

Material selection

If you have already prepared a project for your house, then it's time to do selection of material for its construction... The total cost of the house, its comfort and appearance directly depends on the choice of building materials.

The most popular material is undoubtedly wood. Many people choose wood due to its environmental friendliness, pleasant smell and relatively low price. It remains only to choose - there will be a construction from a bar or logs, or generally give preference to the frame type. Despite the high flammability of this material, you should not be so afraid to build from wood. Indeed, today there is an incredible assortment of all kinds of impregnations and other coatings that protect wooden coatings from the effects of fire and minimize the risk of a sharp fire. Well, in general, it all depends on you - how careful and responsible you are in matters of security.

Build a house out of bricks is a much more expensive undertaking. But there is a significant advantage over wood - the durability of such a structure and a higher fire safety, since it is much less exposed to fire. And when you install a stove or heating in such a house, you can easily spend the winter. Probably the only drawback is the high financial costs and a longer construction process. You can safely attach block houses made of foam concrete and expanded clay concrete blocks to the same category.

Most often, several types of materials are used at once. For example, the house itself is frame and built of wood, and the foundation is built of concrete and bricks. In principle, this option can be called optimal, since it includes a moisture-resistant foundation and an excellent basis for timber frame walls. It is the construction of this type of country house that we will consider in more detail.

Construction stages

For a start, clearly calculate the amount of all building materials, which will be needed to build a house. Decide in advance on color and texture solutions. The number of purchased materials directly depends on the project of your house. If you do not have the time or desire to carry out detailed calculations of all costs, then you can buy a prefabricated model of a finished house. This will simplify the construction process - after all, all you need to do is prepare the required area and, in fact, the assembly itself. But, if you still want to build a house inside and out with your own hands, then be patient and proceed with this, though difficult, but pleasant business.

Foundation

You need to purchase:

• sand, cement, crushed stone and expanded clay (middle fraction);
• boards and bars are not of the highest quality;
• concrete blocks or bricks;
• roofing felt or other vapor barrier material.

There are two main types of foundations for summer houses: strip and columnar. Which one to choose is only your decision. Columnar is chosen much more often due to the lower need for building materials and simple execution that can be easily dealt with alone. The strip foundation is stronger and more durable, but much more building materials will be required. And the construction process itself is quite time consuming - you need to dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and all rooms, isolate it from moisture, lay reinforcement and fill everything with concrete. Moreover, it takes almost a month for such a foundation to solidify.

Walls and roof

For the construction of walls and roofs purchase in advance:

Further, the installation of the support beams is carried out at a distance of at least 60 centimeters from each other. They are attached to the crown bars using metal corners. After that, you can start building the walls. You can assemble the frame separately and attach it ready-made, or start assembling directly on the strapping bars. The size of the bars for frame walls should be at least 10 by 10 centimeters. If you are using boards, their cross section should be at least 5 by 15 centimeters.

When installing uprights, remember to openings for windows and doors... The door opening must be additionally reinforced with an additional post. After the construction of the frame, they are engaged in sheathing. Most often they use lining. It is advisable to perform the sheathing process before covering the roof, as this will strengthen the entire structure and add rigidity to the walls.

When installing the roof it is necessary to decide on its type. A flat roof is more simple and economical in design, but the most popular is still a gable roof. The rafter structure of such a roof can be layered or suspended. For a small house without load-bearing walls inside, a hanging rafter system is quite suitable. Hanging rafters are fixed with a special pulling and thereby relieve unnecessary stress on the walls. The overhead system presupposes the presence of load-bearing walls, on which there is an additional emphasis of the rafters. After installing the rafters and ramp elements, you can proceed to the roofing.

This process begins with vapor barrier film gaskets- this is done perpendicular to the rafter system, and each next layer must overlap the previous one. Only after that you can start laying the corrugated board or other material you have chosen for covering. Don't forget to organize your drainage system.

So, the walls are up, the roof is covered - which means it's time to start installing windows and doors. Following this, you can insulate walls and floors and engage in interior finishing work.

How does the improvement of a suburban area begin? We propose to consider the option of building a small house with amenities and a terrace, which, after the construction of a full-fledged housing, will become an excellent place for rest, storage of household equipment or even a cozy guest house.

Inside the house there is a separate bathroom (4), a rest room with a good natural light(3) and a small change house with an entrance from the outside (1) for storing small things or setting up a mini-workshop. For a pleasant pastime in the fresh air, we will allocate a place in the plan for the attic (2), approximately 180x260 cm. The overall dimensions of the house are 6x6 meters, just for the standard length of the scaffold.

Foundation tricks

Our building is based on 16 concrete pillars arranged in a 4x4 square with a 2 meter gap. The marking of the site is carried out with a grid stretched on stakes, a mark is transferred to the ground from each of the 16 plumb-line intersections. Four inner wells are dug strictly at the intersections, twelve outer wells - with an inward displacement of 7 cm.

You can dig by hand, drill with a motor-drill or use a crane-boring machine. We drill wells with a diameter of 350-400 mm to the depth of soil freezing plus an additional 50 cm.Pour a bucket of rubble or river pebbles at the bottom of each well, then add two buckets (25 liters) of 300 grade concrete with a filler of fraction 5-8. We stick plastic 110 mm sewer pipes (gray PVC) into the mortar that has not yet set. We orient them with sockets upwards; for long pillars, pipes can be made prefabricated. We align the pipes vertically, as well as at the intersections and the general level of lacing, pour buckets of sand into the pits 1-1.5, fill the rest with earth.

After the bases have set, we pour the same concrete into the pipes; you can sit down by vibration or pinning. The post is reinforced with a 14 mm profile rod in the full length of the pipe, a 200 mm long M12 hairpin is welded to the upper edge. Such a foundation does not react in any way to the winter heaving of the soil: a smooth sleeve around the pillar does not allow the soil to freeze to the concrete.

Grillage and frame floor

It takes a week to dry the pillars. Above you need to pull a fine (15 mm) mesh-chain-link, painted or galvanized, two meters wide. We stretch it on the studs of the posts, sew the edges with wire.

Then, a grillage from a bar of 150x150 mm is assembled on the foundation:

• at the intersections we make a half-tree undercut;
• we make holes for the studs with a brace of 20 mm;
• fold the inner grillage lattice;
• horizontally we start the outer beams, observing the dressing scheme;
• tighten the nuts over the wide washers until the bar crushes the mesh;
• we finally display the common horizontal plane with roofing felt linings;
• cut off excess studs.

We draw the mesh to the grillage either with wire, or we knock it out from below with galvanized nails. We put a windproof membrane into the cells, tuck it high at the edges. After that, the space between the beams is filled with a 5: 1 mixture of wood chips and hydrated lime and covered with plastic wrap, the edges are shot with staples.

A crate is mounted on top of the film: a 50x150 mm board is placed on the edge in both directions with the formation of cells of about 580x580 mm. Eleven boards are used on each side, for a total of twenty-two. Along the edges and at the points of intersection with the grillages, the boards are drilled 70 mm with a 10 mm drill, then they are attracted to the base with self-tapping screws. The intersections of the lathing should be performed as on the grillage - with a half-wood trimming, all cracks and junctions are wetted and sealed with summer foam.

The floor frame, with the exception of the cells completely located under the terrace, is filled with mineral wool and covered with a semi-permeable (150 g / m2) diffusion membrane. The floor is laid with an edged tongue-and-groove board over the entire plane. We make ventilation holes in the cells under the terrace in the planks of the frame.

Walls, corners, openings and abutments

Further work begins with two walls opposite the corner attic. First, on a flat base of the house, we lay out and assemble on self-tapping screws a frame made of boards on an edge with outer dimensions of 570x240 cm.In the assembled frame we add 2.4 m racks of boards 24x150 mm with an inter-axis pitch of 60 cm. 60 cm. These short boards will be used as horizontal beams in the frame for joining the sheathing.

We raise the wall vertically, temporarily attach it to the base with plank slopes. The bottom board of the wall frame is attached with 120 mm pins to the edges of the floor system every 40 cm. The second wall is assembled in the same way and installed perpendicular to the first, temporarily tightened with kerchiefs.

Note that this results in the outer corner being "empty". We cover it with foam, put in a 60x60 mm timber, and screw the outer boards of two walls to it, having previously made holes for 100 mm self-tapping screws.

We assemble the rest of the walls in the same way, the inner corner is processed in the same way as the outer one. From the outside, we sheathe the house with 12 mm sheets of OSB 2400 long, so the vertical seams fall exactly on the centers of the posts. Release the sheets 200 mm above the wall frame; at the bottom, the sheathing goes down at least to the middle of the grillage. At the corners, the edges are drawn along the frame of the adjacent wall.

When one side has been sewn up, we scroll a 40x40 mm bar along the vertical edge from the inside and fill the remaining space with foam. From the same corner, we begin to trim the next wall, fasten the edges of the sheets to the connecting bar.

To form doorways, choose a board of 50x150 mm and knock out of it an installation box with internal dimensions of 100x210 cm for the entrance door and 80x210 for internal ones (with a width of 70 cm). Before installation, the vertical wall post is cut out completely (can be divided into 4 crossbeams), after installing the box on top of its vertical upright, 35 cm inserts from the boards are added.

Window blocks with an opening width of less than 60 cm are formed by adding horizontal beams. A block for a wide window is assembled from a 150x50 mm board and inserted into the frame in the same way as a door one, but in this case, fragments from at least two racks must be cut out for it, and T-shaped junctions must be reinforced with kerchiefs.

Everything you need to know about roofing and attic

To save from the cold and heat, the ceiling must have a layer of mineral wool insulation with a thickness of at least 200 mm. In this case, it is better to make the roof single-pitched ventilated. An attic can be, but only as a storage room for materials with a useful height of 40-60 cm.

From a board of 150x50 mm we knock down trapezoidal single-pitched rafters with a height of 60 cm in the back and 110 cm in the front. Two six-meter trusses are being installed over the "complete" part of the house, and five more will be installed with a lift above the attic.

To obtain a sufficient width of the rib, a counter-lattice from a 50x50 mm bar is screwed onto the lower boards of the rafters with self-tapping screws. The truss top board is longer than six meters due to 40 cm overhangs at the front and rear of the house. Therefore, it will be necessary either to merge the existing wood with the linings, or to import a longer one. Vertical jumpers are installed one and a half meters from the low edge of the trusses. The rafters are also reinforced in the front with similar racks, but they are placed exactly above the walls under the direct sewing of the terrace from the floor to the roof. The entrance to the attic is located in its widest part - in the inner corner of the terrace.

Fasten the rafters to the wall frame by adjusting the solution of the latter at the top. After that, add intermediate floor beams between the rafters from a 150x50 mm board with a 50 mm counter batten. Hem the OSB ceiling with a thickness of 9 mm and screw the outer skin of the house to the ends of the ceiling. Fill all the gaps at the junctions with summer foam, then put a vapor barrier and mineral wool into the ceiling, nail in a windproof vapor-permeable membrane from above. Cover the attic floor with 12 mm OSB sheets with trimming the grooves for the rafters. Sew up the vertical walls of the attic with OSB plates along the vertical rafters in the rafters, insulate them as desired. Cover the rafters with plastic wrap and lay a cold roof made of metal or profiled sheet.

Internal and external decoration

In conclusion, we will give recommendations for finishing work. Outside, you have a flat plane with hidden racks every 60 cm. Therefore, both the plastic siding and the block house will fit perfectly.

For interior decoration, drywall suggests itself, but fastening directly to the racks would be a mistake: the wooden frame walks a lot, cracks will appear. Walls can be sheathed with OSB, followed by refining MDF panels or clapboard. If you still intend to use drywall, prepare the profile frame according to all the rules.

The need to build a compact house may arise for various reasons. For example, such a small structure is perfect for placement in a summer cottage that is not used for permanent residence. In the small house you can change comfortably, put your things and spend the night.

Of course, ready-made cabins are sold on the market, but the quality of their performance often leaves much to be desired, and the cost is definitely overpriced. For the same money, you can build a great little house on your own.

There is nothing difficult in self-construction of a compact structure. Follow the guide and everything will work out for sure.

Any construction should begin with planning, without which the construction will take much more time, money and effort. There is a chance that a finished structure, built without a plan, will not meet your needs and expectations.

For a small house, it is not necessary to draw up detailed documentation with many drawings. Even a simple sketch indicating the main dimensions, communications and other design features will be enough.

Think in advance about the order of the internal organization of the future small house. Will he have only one room, or will there be enough space for arranging a small kitchen and a small bathroom? In this moment, focus on your personal preferences and capabilities.

For example, many prudent owners use a very interesting technique: they raise the ceiling and equip a sleeping place in the attic. This solution allows you to significantly save usable space.

It is recommended to pay special attention to the experience of the Japanese. Even on a few square meters, they manage to place everything they need to create a comfortable and cozy environment, because even a mini house is still a house in which it is definitely more convenient than on the street.

This guide will give instructions on how to build a fairly simple little house. Approximately 75% of the space will be occupied by living quarters, and the remaining space will be spent on placing a pantry and a dry closet.

If everything is very difficult with free space, you can make separate entrances to the mentioned premises from the street. In the event that such problems with free space no, and you do not want to constantly go out, equip the entrance to the technical room from the living quarters.

Make your changes to the plan, if desired. For example, instead of a pantry, you can equip a kitchenette with a table, a pair of folding chairs or small stools, and a compact stove.

After approval of the plan, proceed directly to the implementation of construction activities. Start by setting up your foundation.

Foundation

For the construction of a small house, the simplest foundation of blocks is perfect. A very interesting solution came up with Western private developers. They create a foundation block with four channels. A reinforcing bar is introduced into each of these channels. The rods themselves are driven into the ground. As a result, the block is securely anchored to the ground.

In the project under consideration, the foundation will consist of six such blocks. You will place four blocks in the corners of the future building, the remaining two - under the internal partition.

You can make the blocks yourself from concrete or buy them ready-made.

Dig a hole 200 mm deep with sides corresponding to the dimensions of the blocks.

Fill the hole with a 20 cm layer of sand and gravel. Tamp the pillow well.

Install blocks and insert fittings according to previous recommendations.

Cover the blocks with a layer of roofing material.

Make sure that the blocks are installed evenly and proceed with the implementation of further planned activities.

Floor laying

First step

Fit the lower trim. Make it from a bar with a section of 15x15 cm. To connect the harness beams, use a convenient mounting option. You can, for example, connect them using the thorn-and-groove method with additional reinforcement with glue and bolts.

Second step

Lay a platform previously assembled from a 15x5 cm board on top of the harness.

Third step

Sew up the platform with plywood.

Fourth step

Turn the resulting box over and put insulation in it.

Fifth step

Sew up the insulation with a double layer of plywood. Lay plywood with a thickness of 1.2 cm along the box, and across - with a thickness of 0.9 cm. As a result, the floor will have a thickness of 2.1 cm. Use PVA glue to fasten the plywood layers.

Sixth step

Sew up the platform with roofing felt on all sides.

On this the floor is ready. If you wish, you can additionally finish it with another material to your taste.

Linoleum is perfect for finishing the floor.

First step

Treat the timber and boards intended for the construction of walls with an antiseptic.

Second step

Assemble the frame of the planned dimensions.

Third step

Equip the top harness.

Fourth step

Sheathe the entire structure with plywood.

Fifth step

Attach a windscreen to the outside of the walls. At the same time, this material will act as waterproofing.

In the process of building walls, do not forget to leave openings for the installation of doors and double-glazed windows.

Arrangement of roofing structures

The roof structure must be such that in the future, when opening the door, the overhang of the roof does not touch. To comply with this rule, the slope of the roof slope must be 25 degrees.

First step

Install the rafters. To do this, use boards 10x5 cm. For fixing the boards, use corners and self-tapping screws.

Second step

Mount the roof ridge. To make it, use a 15x5 cm board.

Third step

Additionally fasten the roof rafters with 10x2.5 cm ties.

Fourth step

Attach 0.9 cm plywood to the rafters.

Fifth step

Lay your preferred roofing material over the finished subfloor. Flexible shingles work well. It is a relatively lightweight material with good performance properties. At the same time, the roof of a small house will have a small area, so you will not spend a lot of money on finishing material.

Doors and double-glazed windows

To create a healthy indoor climate, even if it is very small, you need to install windows. It is better to provide places for placing double-glazed windows even at the stage of assembling the frame.

To determine the optimal total window area, divide the floor area of ​​your small house by 5. Divide the resulting value by the number of windows you need.

If you plan to equip your small house with a bathroom and a kitchen, think over the order of furniture placement in advance so that the windows do not interfere with the normal use of the house in the future, but are a useful addition.

If possible, windows should be positioned in a southeastern direction, since there is very little sunlight on the north side, and low western sun rays are bad for the eyes.

You can buy the doors ready-made, or you can make them yourself. It is enough to assemble the frame, fill the voids with thermal insulation (mineral wool is perfect), sheathe the frame with plywood and upholstery with the desired material.

Wall decoration

External

Proceed to exterior decoration walls.

Internal

Proceed with interior decoration.

1. Secure a layer of thermal insulation material.
2. Cover the insulation with a layer of vapor barrier.
3. Cover the walls with clapboard.

This completes the wall decoration. After that, it is recommended to do the arrangement of the ceiling and make the porch to your taste. It is better to perform these activities before starting the arrangement of the roof structure.

Make the furnishings and technical equipment of the small house to your taste.

Ceiling decoration

1. Cover the ceiling with a vapor barrier.
2. Fix the thermal insulation material.
3. Sheathe the ceiling with clapboard insulation layers.

You can lay boards in the attic. At this point, focus on the specifics of your specific situation, taking into account how exactly you will use your attic.

Required communications

If necessary, bring electrical wiring, sewerage and water supply into the house.

For heating a small house, both an electric heater and a gas convector are well suited. Such gas convectors use liquefied gas as fuel. To ensure the most efficient heat distribution, the system should be equipped with a galvanized steel reflector.

The gas convector must be equipped with a chimney. The chimney is carefully insulated to prevent fires. To protect the chimney from snow, rain and various debris, install a special protective visor on its street end.

On this, the small country house is ready. You did an excellent job without involving outside specialists for this, which allowed you to save a significant amount of money, and made sure that there is nothing difficult in the construction of such structures - you just need to follow the guide in everything and adhere to the advice of professional builders. You can start using your own house built.

Happy work!

Video - DIY small house

Even a small country house should have at least a kitchen and a recreation room. If you plan to spend the whole summer outside the city, in addition to often receive guests, it makes sense to build a full-fledged building with all the amenities. We suggest you look at the photos of the projects of country houses.

Basic requirements of SNiP

The requirements for a building located on a garden plot are less stringent than for residential building... However, if during the construction process you create discomfort for your neighbors, you may be forced to demolish an already finished building.

Therefore, before choosing a project, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements of SNiP:

• even in a small area, the building can be located only at a distance of 3 m from the neighboring fence
• the minimum distance from the public area (road) is also 3 m, and if there is a passage 5 m
• if there are other buildings on your site, in order to reduce the risk of fire, the distance between block or stone buildings is left at least 6 m, between a stone and a wooden structure 10 m, if both buildings are wooden - 15 m; when using wood only as a ceiling - 8 m
• in the presence of a closely passing power line, the distance from it is from 10 m; from the high-voltage line it is even more up to 40 m
• a certain distance (up to 4 m) it is necessary to retreat from tree trunks, 2 m is enough from low-growing trees.

Don't forget about the building density. With a standard size of a summer cottage of 6-10 acres, you have the right to occupy no more than 30% of the area with buildings.

The territory must have a mesh or lattice fence 1.5 m high. Blind fences are allowed only if it is agreed by a meeting of gardening members or both neighbors have given their consent.

Do you need any permission?

According to Art. 51 p. 1 h. 17 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation in the event that the building is not intended for permanent residence, a special building permit is not required. But to obtain ownership of an already built garden house, as well as other outbuildings, you will need to issue a cadastral passport and register with the Registration Chamber (according to a simplified scheme).

If it is planned to build a residential building on the garden plot with the right to register in it, then it will be necessary to obtain a special permit signed by the executive authorities and a building passport. And also the permission of the fire inspection. In the future, you will also need to register ownership of the building.

Even a small building should last long enough

To make the country house as comfortable as possible, you should listen to the opinion of experts:

• no matter how you would like to build something unusual on your site, with little experience in construction, it is better to dwell on a universal project that has already been tested over the years
• when planning, you should immediately determine the size of the rooms and their location; this will allow you to immediately determine the supply of communications (sewerage and water supply), which are laid even at the stage of building the foundation
• in order to save your own funds, the project of even a temporary structure must be thought out so that in the future it can be used as a bath, a barn or a summer kitchen
• be sure to consider the possibility of further extension to the building of additional premises: verandas, terraces, baths and other buildings
• even in a small house, it is worthwhile to provide not only a relaxation room, but also a kitchen area
• in the absence of other buildings, a separate place should be allocated for placing garden tools
• the building must be durable enough to last at least 25-30 years

How much will the construction cost?

Regardless of the size of the future garden house, before starting construction, you will need to calculate the cost of its construction. To do this, you need to think about:

• Main settings: length, width and height of the building
• type of foundation and its height
• the type of materials used for the construction of walls, and their thickness
• roof type
• materials used for flooring
• dimensions of each room
• heating methods (if planned)
• types of finishing materials
• ways of summing up communications: electricity, sewerage, etc.

There are enough programs on the network that can calculate the approximate cost of building any type of building. In most of them, the trial period is free. You can also use online calculators for calculations. Please note that the cost of materials in them may differ from what is valid in your region of residence.

Since prices in the process of building a country house may rise if the construction is planned for a long-term, in the estimate, it is better to lay a stock of at least 10-20% of the total cost. When calculating the cost, do not forget that such "little things" as roof bolts, screws, primer, plaster will also require considerable expenses.

It is better to purchase materials in one place - a wholesale purchase will cost much less.

Choosing a place on the site

Choosing the best place on the site

To begin with, you need to draw up a plan of the estate on a scale and mark the cardinal points on it. Immediately mark on it the existing buildings and large plants that cannot be demolished. Shading on the plan all restricted areas (distances from the fence, power lines, etc.).

You should also not locate the building near compost pits and a toilet - at the slightest breath of breeze, unpleasant odors will enter the house. Dotted lines mark favorable zones. Try to plan the site in such a way that even after construction there is a place for outbuildings (if required), recreation areas, for example, a pool, a gazebo, playgrounds, etc.

In addition to the distances from neighboring buildings and the road established by SNiP, you should focus on other factors:

• It is better to place a country house closer to access roads and sources of communications: loading and unloading crops and household items will not become a big problem in this case, and connecting to power supply and other communications will be cheaper
• wind direction: so that the building does not cool off quickly, you should not place windows and doors on the side of the prevailing winds
• when the windows exit to the south or east of the room in summer time will quickly overheat, it is better if the sun hits them after lunch
• to The groundwater did not destroy the foundation of the building, the house is located on the most elevated place; on wetlands, if there is no alternative, you will need to consider a reliable drainage system and waterproofing the foundation
• pay attention to the appearance from the window, because comfort always consists of such little things.

Take your time choosing a project. Start development at least six months before the start of construction, so that you have the opportunity to think it over thoroughly and not rush to make calculations.

We draw up a project

Of course, a country house project can be ordered from a specialized organization, but the prices for such services are considerable. When building a small house, it is much easier to use ready-made schemes, which are abundant on the network, and supplement them with your own calculations.

Building plan

You will need some blueprints. The first one with the designation of the location of all rooms, the entrance and window openings, as well as the thickness of the walls and partitions. The second figure shows the layout of the foundation and the roof overlap diagram.

Small building project

To build too large a structure on 3-6 acres of land is impractical- it will take up most of the site. A grandiose structure is not required even if you spend a little time at the dacha. In some cases, a small building that does not have a foundation and is assembled from boards or even plywood is sufficient. However, such a house will not last long.

Inexpensive panel or foam block buildings on a pile foundation will cost a minimum amount, and even grandchildren will get it. A small country house can have a standard size of 3x3 or 4x4 m, and even a separate small walk-through kitchen-dining room can be provided in it. In the second room, one or two sleeping places will be equipped.

A small house can have a single room with space for kitchen cabinets, a dining table and a sleeping area. But even to a small country house it makes sense to attach a winter glazed veranda or terrace along the long side of the building 2 m long. The veranda is erected on a common foundation or the foundation is poured for it separately.

Such a house can be made with a summer or winter attic. A medium-sized building will take up a minimum of free space on the land plot, while the living area will increase. If there is an attic, bedrooms are placed in it, and on the ground floor there is a kitchen and a bathroom.

It is better to complement such a building with a veranda or a terrace, where you can comfortably settle down to relax in the evening. For better preservation of heat, a vestibule can be provided in front of the entrance. A small outdoor shower will fit well on the veranda.

If a light-weight timber is used for the construction of walls, and there are no problems with the soil (it is not too wet and not loose, and the groundwater does not rise too high), it is enough to erect a strip foundation. The base for the oven is being prepared simultaneously with the foundation of the house. For a veranda, a columnar base will be enough.

For a log house from a 150x150 bar, a strip is prepared from a foundation 25 cm wide.The terrace is installed separately on pillars with a section of 25 cm, buried in the ground at a distance of 60 cm.When building on swampy areas or erecting brick walls, you will need a full-fledged deeply buried foundation.

To save money, the foundation for the veranda can be made separate lightweight (columnar or pile). You can attach it after the end of construction. But the option with a separate foundation is suitable only if there is a soil that is not prone to movement, otherwise the foundation will lead.

Large house project

If the family is large, and the country house is planned to be used as a residential house, including in winter, it makes sense to build a capital building from a rounded log, bar or even brick according to ready-made projects measuring 5.3x8.4 m, 7x8.4 m, 10x8 m and more. You can order and develop your own custom project.

For such houses, a full-fledged tape foundation is required. It is laid below the freezing of the soil so that when the seasonal temperatures change, there is no movement and deformation of the structure.

A large country house can be two-story or consist of one floor and an insulated attic. It will have enough space not only for residents, but also for guests. On the first floor, there is a kitchen, a bathroom and a living room, and on the second floor there are bedrooms, children's rooms, an office, if necessary, and other rooms.

To avoid unnecessary problems with the water, gas and sewage supply, it is not worth moving the bathroom and the cooking room to the second floor. It is also customary to equip the living room on the ground floor, near the kitchen and away from the bedrooms.

If the building is planned to be operated all year round, it is better to build not an attic, but a full-fledged second floor. Otherwise, almost the same amount of money will be spent on its insulation, wind and vapor barrier, as on the construction of the second floor. It is also necessary to take into account the cost of heating - in the winter cold, capital walls will store heat much better than even well-insulated thin walls of the attic.

House with an attic

A country house with an attic will cost less than the construction of a full-fledged two-story structure only if it will be operated only in the summer. But even with its arrangement, you will need insulation. Otherwise, it will be too hot on sunny days. The heat insulator layer is made slightly thinner than for winter operation.

If only the first floor is heated, only the walls of the building and the ceiling are insulated, leaving the attic cold. The door / cover intended for passage to the upper floor is made as tight as possible and additionally insulated.

When constructing a conventional gable roof, the living space in the attic will not be enough. To increase the free space, the roof is made broken. However, its construction is more complicated, and more materials will be needed.

Another way to expand the space in the attic is to raise the walls just above the first floor. Such houses are called "one and a half storey". Due to the rise of the walls, the area of ​​the premises will slightly increase.

House project with glazed veranda

The veranda can be attached only to one side of the houses or run along two or even three walls. On heaving soils, it is better to build a foundation for it at the same time as the foundation of the house. Indeed, in the manufacture of a separate shallow foundation, you will gain only 1-2 m.

Most often, the veranda is glazed completely or the lower half of the wall is closed, and double-glazed windows or single frames are inserted at the top. You will receive a complete space in which you can equip a dining room, living room or kitchen. In the warm season, the windows can be thrown wide open.

The veranda can also serve as a continuation of the living room. It can also be used to equip a small sports corner, a children's playroom or even an office.

House with terrace

On the covered terrace it will be possible not only to settle down for tea drinking on a warm summer evening. On hot or rainy days, it will be possible to do some current business on it without littering the house. Often it is added after the end of the main construction on a separate columnar foundation.

The garage is designed as an extension to the house or is located on the basement floor. Walls and foundations can be made of bricks or concrete blocks. If the soil is wet or loose, the house is placed on a reinforced concrete cushion.

Two-storey house

If the family is large enough, and the size of the plot does not allow building a large country house, it makes sense to build a two-story structure. In this case, you can squeeze the maximum benefit even from a small piece of land. The size of such a structure can be anything from 4x4 m to 10x10 m or more.

The construction of the second floor will not cost much more. The load on the foundation increases by only 60%. Costs for flooring and roofing do not increase at all. Only the cost of materials for walls and interfloor floors will be added. Thus, a square meter of area will be cheaper than in the case of a one-story building.

Experts do not advise to overload the house from a bar with an additional floor. It has enough advantages, but its strength has limits.

Country house combined with a bath or sauna

If the land plot does not allow to allocate a separate place for the construction of a bathhouse, it may well be attached to the country house. Such a project is also profitable economically - after all, much more building materials will be needed for a separate building. The supply of separate communications - light and water supply - will not be needed either.

Very often a bath or sauna is attached to the house after the end of construction. The foundation for it is chosen depending on the type of soil and the total weight of the building. To protect against moisture, the walls are carefully waterproofed.

Even if the bathhouse is being built simultaneously with the residential building, the foundation for it is made separate so that cracks do not appear due to the difference in humidity, and it does not move away from the general structure. The foundation must be erected separately from the foundation of the house.

Indeed, due to high humidity, cracks may appear in it, and the base of the bath will begin to move away from the foundation of the entire structure. Sewer pipes and water supply pipes are laid in it. A separate drain pit is being prepared at a distance of at least 3-5 m from the foundation.

To prevent moisture from entering the room, the entrances to the bath or sauna and the house are made separate. Between them, you can build a covered passageway, a veranda, a gazebo, or at least a canopy - in this case, when moving from a bathhouse to a house in winter period the likelihood of getting cold decreases. Since the bathhouse and sauna are a source of high humidity, you should carefully consider the system of its ventilation and waterproofing of the room.

In addition to the ventilation holes, it is advisable to provide a window or a small window for ventilation in it. The most acceptable option is to adjoin the steam room to a wall with a stove located in the house. The bath or sauna will dry out much faster in this case.

House with bay window

A bay window is a small part of the room protruding beyond the facade. Such structures will look ridiculous against the background of a building of a regular shape. A bay window will look harmonious only if there is a complex architecture, an unusual shape of windows, a roof or an entrance group.

It can be built into only one of the floors or pass through two floors at once. The shape of the bay window can be any: from semicircular to trapezoidal or pentahedral. With the help of it, it is possible to expand the area of ​​the building - in such extensions, dining areas, winter gardens or study rooms are located.

In the absence of experience in construction, it is hardly realistic to create such a structure, and the project will need to be ordered from specialists. However, such a house looks very unusual.

It is possible to attach a bay window even after the construction of the country house... In this case, cantilever slabs are used as the foundation, which are embedded in the load-bearing wall. They deepen such a foundation to the same level as the foundation of the whole house. For laying out curly ledges, brick or profiled timber with a special locking system is most often used.

The protruding elements of the bay window lead to a weakening of the rigidity of the entire structure, therefore, the house must be reinforced with the box.

How much will it cost to buy a finished building?

In the absence of experience in construction, it makes sense to purchase a ready-made building on a turnkey basis. Depending on the allocated amount, you can buy both the simplest shield structure, and a full-fledged structure from a bar or log. Since the cost of materials in each region may differ, it is better to find out the prices for such houses on the corresponding sites.

• For example, a small house made of timber 3x3 m with clapboard sheathing will cost 60 thousand rubles.
• A medium-sized building 5x3 m will cost about 10 thousand rubles.
• A full-fledged log house with a veranda can be bought for 270 thousand rubles.

Materials used for construction

The choice of the type of foundation depends on the type of soil and the total weight of the structure:

• columnar or pile foundations made of concrete blocks, bricks, reinforced concrete, rubble stone with a step of 1-2.5 m; to combine them into one structure, which serves as a support for the house, a grillage made of wood or metal is used; the most economical option, more suitable for light timber or frame structures, log cabins; in summer cottage construction, screw piles are mainly used, driven, rammed and drilling are used less often;
• strip foundation: a more durable support made of reinforced concrete, brick or rubble, such a tape runs along the entire perimeter of the house and internal partitions; it is divided into two types: shallowly buried in the ground by 40-70 cm and deeply buried (used for heaving soils) 1.5-1.8 m below the freezing level; strip bases can be used for all types of houses from cast, block to brick;
• slab base in the form of a monolithic reinforced slab located on a sand and gravel bed; with heaving of the soil, such a foundation is capable of lowering and raising without any deformation; such a base also serves as a rough floor; suitable for all types of buildings, including large masses.

A columnar foundation on loose soils or with a close passage of groundwater is unacceptable. In these cases, strip foundations are used.

Most types of foundations are erected on a 20-30 cm sand and gravel bed, which protects the foundation from groundwater and capillary moisture. It is especially important in the presence of heaving (peat and clay) soil, which, when frozen, changes its volume and rises upward. In the absence of a sand and gravel substrate, this can lead to warping of the foundation and cracking of the walls.

Such a pillow helps to perfectly level the base before pouring the foundation. With the help of it, the pressure of the building on the ground is distributed more evenly. In its absence and uneven subsidence of the structure, it can simply warp. Do not make such a pillow only on sandy soils or highly swampy lands.

When laying the foundation, sewage and water supply pipes are immediately laid. The depth of their laying is 0.5 m lower than the freezing point of the soil. If this is not possible, the pipes are additionally insulated. To ensure the gravity of the liquid, they are laid at a slight slope of 4-7 °.

Materials for walls

The choice of materials for the walls of a country house depends on many factors: personal preferences, the region of construction, length of residence (all year round or only in summer), project requirements and, of course, the allocated amount:

• frame or panel buildings: their main advantages are low cost and ease of construction; the disadvantages include high flammability, low wind resistance and poor thermal insulation - a few years after shrinkage of mineral wool or foam, laid between the frame racks, it will be difficult to heat the house; service life is 30-40 years;
• slag cast: inexpensive buildings, formwork is being prepared for arranging the walls, into which a mixture of cement and coal slag is poured; this method was used several decades ago even in the construction of residential buildings; the main disadvantage of such a material is its low moisture resistance: inside such rooms, due to dampness, a fungus quickly starts; service life up to 50-70 years;
• light houses from gas or foam blocks: These inexpensive materials are 8 times larger than ordinary bricks, so the construction of the building will be fast, in addition, the blocks are easy to saw or drill; due to their high porosity, they have high heat and sound insulation; the service life of aerated concrete is up to 50-80 years, foam blocks are slightly lower;
• sandwich panel houses: unlike frame and panel boards, the load-bearing element in them is not posts and crossbars, but the panel itself, filled with a filler made of polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. Such structures do not require assembly - fragments of the future building are delivered ready-made, they only need to be assembled; although such products are more expensive than panel and frame ones, the disadvantages are the same - high flammability and short service life; although manufacturers insist that such a house can last up to a hundred years, in practice, in a couple of decades after the insulation shrinks, it will be problematic to live in the house permanently;
• houses from a bar or log cabins: sustainable sustainable building; excellent heat retention; service life of 100 years and more; garden houses from a bar can be purchased and ready-made, "turnkey";
• brick or stone buildings: their construction will cost much more, but they will also last 100-150 years or more.

Roof

For an inexpensive country house, it will be optimal to use a roof made of metal or profiled sheet... Such a roof is strong enough and not afraid of bad weather and can last up to 40 years. Rolled metal coated with a colored protective film looks quite aesthetically pleasing. Metal tiles are more convenient for arranging roofs of complex shapes.

The disadvantages of these two materials include high level noise during rain or wind - the impact of each drop will be heard in the room. That is why it is worth considering the soundproofing of the floor.

Inexpensive foam is a good heat insulator, but it makes no sense to use it as a sound insulator - it conducts sounds well. In addition, this material is flammable.

When using roofing material as a roof, it is better to stay on a material with an additional protective coating in the form of abrasive chips - it will last longer. However, the service life of inexpensive bitumen-based materials is short and is only 12-15 years. For euroruberoid based on fiberglass, it is a little more - 20-30 years.

The most optimal material for the roof of a building, which is used not only in summer, but also in winter, is slate. At a relatively low cost, it has excellent performance- not afraid of temperature changes, chemically resistant, and its real service life is up to 30-40 years. However, slate weighs a lot and increases the load on the foundation, therefore, when laying the foundation, this fact must be taken into account.

Arrangement of partitions

In construction, there is a rule: partitions should not exceed the weight of the load-bearing walls. The simplest inexpensive structures are frame, panel board or plank. It is better not to use drywall in an unheated building - it quickly absorbs moisture and will warp it over time.

In such a house, it is better to use ordinary partitions made of boards, later upholstered with shingles and plastered with lime. Any types of partitions are installed only on the rough floor. After installing the frame, fixed to the floor and ceiling with straps, heat insulators are laid inside, with the help of which the heat is more evenly distributed inside the premises.

When erecting walls from a bar or log, the arrangement of partitions is started only after the tree has shrunk. The timber will settle for at least 6 months, but it will take at least a year to dry the logs. Glued laminated timber almost does not shrink, so the installation of partitions can be started immediately after the end of construction.

Facade finishing

Facade plaster

Houses made of cinder blocks or slag-cast structures can be simply plastered and then painted with facade paint. Frame houses are sewn up with wood, trimmed with siding, block house (panels under a log) or temopanels. It is also allowed to plaster them.

If you have free funds, you can revet the country house with a ventilated facade with porcelain stoneware tiles or bricks. However, the cost of these materials cannot be called democratic.

Warming

If the heated building is not sufficiently insulated, this will lead not only to an increase in the cost of coal or gas, but also the appearance of condensation in the premises, arising from the high temperature difference. Protecting the building from temperature extremes and excess moisture by laying a heater will significantly extend its service life.

It is better to insulate the building only from the side of the facade so that the dew point (the temperature at which water vapor turns into water) does not move into the building. You will need to insulate both the foundation, the floor over the basement (between the logs or under the screed), the attic floor, and the walls themselves.

As a heat insulator, you can use inexpensive foam, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, sawdust or expanded clay. The last two are used as basement insulation and attic backfill. Extruded polystyrene foam, resistant to decay, can be used both for thermal insulation of walls and for insulation of the base of the house.

For thermal insulation of the walls, a frame is being prepared, between which waterproofing and a layer of insulation are laid. It is recommended to install a film that serves as a windbreak on top of the heat insulator. Further, the frame is closed with any finishing material.

Having bought your land plot outside the city and deciding to build a summer house on it, you will be faced with many questions related to the choice of layout, selection of suitable materials and construction. However, you have one advantage - it is much easier to build a small summer house with your own hands than a solid mansion with a complex layout. With our tips and step-by-step guides, you can build your own home by choosing suitable photo future structure in the network. Such a house will become any vacation spot for the whole family and will not require significant financial investments from you in its construction.

Features and differences of the flight house

As a rule, a summer house is a compact one-story building or a building with an attic floor. Nevertheless, even a small summer cottage should have all the conditions for a comfortable pastime - a kitchen, rooms, a veranda, preferably water supply with sewerage. As for the bathroom and shower, when building a country house, which is designed for living in the warm season, you can get by with a separate toilet and a summer shower on the site.

Unlike a full-fledged country house, inexpensive and lightweight building materials are usually used for the construction of a summer house, which can be assembled with your own hands without the involvement of construction equipment. Another advantage of using such materials is the ability to equip a shallow lightweight foundation. This way you can save both on materials and on the amount of earthwork.

Advice: wood is the optimal material for building summer houses. Installation is best done according to frame technology.

Country house project

On the network you can find many photos of country houses, from which it becomes clear that this building can have completely different dimensions, design and layout. The choice of this or that option depends on the size of the summer cottage, the number of people who will live in the house, and financial capabilities.

If you look at the layouts of summer houses, you will notice that their sizes usually do not exceed 5x6 m or 6x4 m. Larger houses are being built for the purpose of year-round living.

When designing and building a country house with your own hands, you should think over its correct landing on the site. When choosing a place for a house, the following regulatory gaps should be observed:

• The building should be located at a distance of at least 3 meters from the border of the neighbors' territory. From the border of the site, which runs along the street or passage, the house should be located at a distance of at least 5 meters.
• It is also worth observing fire breaks from residential buildings in neighboring areas. These breaks depend on the materials from which both structures are made. So, between two stone houses it is worth observing a gap of 6 m, between a stone and a wooden house - 10 m, between two wooden houses the distance should be at least 15 m.
• Distances from outbuildings on your site to the house being erected are not standardized.

Most often, a one-story building project with a veranda or terrace is chosen for a summer house, on which it is very pleasant to relax on quiet summer evenings. The veranda or terrace can be open or closed. An attic space is set up under the roof of a one-story house, which can be used for storing country utensils, garden tools, etc.

If the area of ​​the site does not allow for a more overall structure, and in a small one-story house it is not possible to carve out enough space for all family members, then the best option will become a summer house with an attic floor. In the photo on the network, you can see how beautiful and proportional such houses look. At the same time, on the ground floor, you can equip a kitchen and a living room, and the attic floor can be allocated for bedrooms for all family members.

Some owners of country houses dream of making a fireplace in it. This product will allow you not only to create a cozy family atmosphere on a quiet evening, but also to warm the room on cool nights, which sometimes happen even in summer.

Advice: if you decide to make a fireplace with your own hands, keep in mind that you need to lay a good foundation for it. You can lay out a fire brick fireplace, but it is very difficult to do it yourself. But it is quite possible to install a metal factory fireplace.

Choice of materials

At the stage of choosing a layout, it is worth choosing in advance the materials from which the construction will be carried out. To build a summer home, you can use the following products:

1. The traditional material for the construction of a country house is wood. It is distinguished by its environmental friendliness, ease of processing and installation, and an affordable price. In addition, wood walls create a favorable microclimate in the room, regulating humidity and saturating the air with healing phytoncides. A wooden house can be built from timber, logs or sheet materials using frame technology. The only drawback of such buildings is their increased fire hazard.

Important: in order to protect a wooden building from fire, rot and damage by insects, materials must be treated with special impregnations (antiseptics and fire retardants).

1. A country house built of brick will cost much more, but it will turn out to be more durable and durable. However, if heating is carried out in such a house or a stove is built in it, then the building can be used even in winter. The process of building a brick house is longer and requires you to have the appropriate skills, although if you wish, such a structure is also easy to build on your own.
2. A cheaper alternative to brick can be foam blocks and gas blocks. In addition to the reasonable price, this material has a low specific weight, which facilitates its transportation and installation. A gas-block house is quite warm, but it needs external cladding to protect the walls from moisture, since the material is quite hygroscopic. Provided that the heating system is arranged in such a house, you can also live in winter.

Separately, it is worth talking about materials for arranging the foundation. Their choice depends on the construction of the walls, the type of foundation, geological and climatic conditions in the region of construction. If we are building a house from piece stone materials (bricks, foam blocks or aerated blocks), then it is better to choose brick, concrete or reinforced concrete for arranging the foundation. So:

• Under a brick house, you will have to make a recessed monolithic strip foundation made of reinforced concrete. This is the most expensive option for arranging the base. The depth of the foundation base must be below the freezing point of the soil.
• For walls made of light materials (aerated concrete, foam blocks and wood), you can equip a shallow strip foundation made of monolithic reinforced concrete, a columnar base made of concrete, stone, factory blocks, steel pipes or treated logs.
• On heaving soils and when building on a slope, it is advisable to make a base on screw piles. They are made from steel pipes with a helical blade at the end. The pipes can be manually screwed into the ground. The depth is below the freezing point.

As for the materials for arranging the roof, they are no different from those used in the construction of a traditional residential building. For the rafter system, wooden beams are used, the lathing is made of boards or OSB (in the case of laying soft roofing material). The roof covering can be made of corrugated board, metal roofing tiles, roll shingles, slate, etc.

Construction technology

Since the most inexpensive country house will be a frame building on a columnar base, we will describe step by step how to build such a house with our own hands.

1. After preparing the site and completing the markings, we dig holes under the pillars. It should be noted that the pillars are made under all external and internal load-bearing walls with an equal pitch (1-1.5 m). The dimensions of the pillar depend on the material from which it will be made. Brick pillars under frame house can be 380x380 mm in size.
2. After digging holes to a mark below the freezing point of the soil, a sand cushion is made at the bottom. A layer of sand 10 cm high is moistened with water and thoroughly rammed.
3. Then, pillars of the required height are laid out of bricks using cement mortar. The outer surface of the posts is plastered.
4. On the upper horizontal surface of the pillars, waterproofing is performed from two layers of roofing material.
5. Further, strapping beams (timber 150x15 mm) are laid on the posts. In the corners, they are fastened together and fixed to the posts using anchors or steel brackets.
6. We attach logs to the strapping beams with an equal pitch (70 cm).
7. Next, we mount the wall frame. It can be assembled on the ground and lifted onto a beam or erected directly on a harness. The second option is more suitable for self-execution. For the frame, it is worth taking bars with a section of 50x150 mm. In the corners of the house, double bars are installed to increase the rigidity.
8. We mount the vertical racks of the frame at the location of the window and door openings, as well as along the entire plane of the walls with an equal pitch.
9. After that, the upper strapping bar is mounted. The horizontal frame beams are fixed above the window and door openings. In the corners of the house, to increase the rigidity of the frame, oblique struts are mounted on both sides.
10. Now the frame of the house is sheathed with sheet material (OSB, chipboard, moisture-resistant plywood) or clapboard. Heat-insulating material (mineral wool, basalt insulation, extruded polystyrene foam) should be laid in the space between the two layers of sheathing (inside the frame).
11. We proceed to the implementation of the floor structure. We attach sub-floor boards to the logs from the bottom side. On top of them, bending around the logs, we lay a waterproofing membrane. Then we put insulation in the gap between the lags. After that comes a layer of vapor barrier and finishing floor boards.
12. We install floor beams above the vertical posts of the wall frame. For a snug fit, grooves are cut out at their edges. The beams are additionally fixed to the frame with steel corners.
13. Now we are installing the rafter system. We fasten the extreme pairs of rafter legs on the ground and mount them on the walls as gables. We connect these pairs of rafters by means of a ridge beam. After that, you can mount the remaining pairs of rafter legs and install them at an equal pitch, connecting them to the strapping beams and ceilings.
14. Next, a vapor barrier film is spread over the rafters. It is fixed with staples and laths on the rafters.
15. Next, the lathing is performed and the roofing material is laid.